Niger - salt caravan (Azelaï) between Bilma and Agadez

The caravan (Azelaï) continues its journey after having spent the night near the tree of Teneré - Niger

The salt caravan (Azelaï) about 70 km from Agadéz during a sandstorm - Niger

The Ténéré is one of the least populated regions in the world, except here on the “salt route” from Bilma to Agadez (Niger), where loud trucks have replaced the steady, serene pace of the camel caravans.

Azalaï is the name given to the caravans that transport salt from Bilma to Agadez. The route is strenuous and dangerous even for the dromedaries, as proved by this skeleton in the foreground.

Salt caravan (Azaleï) moving through the Ténéré – 600 km of desert until Agadez!

The salt caravan moves on. The 600 km distance between Bilma and Agadez is covered in 16 to 20 days. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

Azalaï in the sandstorm – Niger – Tenere

Azalai in the sandstorm
Azalaï, a camel caravan led by the Tuaregs, transports various goods crossing the Ténéré desert to exchange them for rock salt or sell them on the Sahel markets. The trip usually takes place between October and November and lasts about forty days.
Niger - Tenere - 1967

The Azalaï or salt caravan is the event of the year for the nomads. It always follows the same route because of the rarity of water points. The drivers believe that the trik el-meleh has existed since time immemorial ... In the past, the big caravans included up to 3000 camels. In our days, they number 500 to 1000. The stages stretch over almost 40 kilometres per day, and the load of an animal rarely weighs more than 80 to 100 kilograms. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

And the caravan moves on, untouched, it seems, by fatigue, thirst and sandy winds. Never does the leader lose his way, of which he knows every dune, every bend. But sometimes, consumed by his too great efforts, a camel falls as if struck by lightning. It will not rise again. Often, not only must the animal be abandoned, but also its burden left behind if no replacement camels follow the convoy. And all along the track, white skeletons, slowly buried by the sand, mark the harsh ordeal of the peaceful "desert ships". - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The Arbre du Ténéré from a distance! This tree was an umbrella thorn acacia (Acacia tortilis) that was considered the most isolated tree on earth - supposedly the only one within a radius of 400 kilometres, other data mention 150 km. It was probably the last surviving tree of a group of trees that grew up when the desert was less dry than at present. The tree stood alone for several decades. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

During the winter of 1938/39, a shaft was dug near the "Arbre du Ténéré", it turned out that the tree had reached the water table at a depth of 33 to 36 metres. In 1939, the officer Michel Lesourd, stationed in French West Africa, wrote about the solitary tree: "One must have seen the tree to believe its existence. What is its secret? How can it still remain undeserted, despite the multitude of dromedaries near it? How come no camel eats its leaves and buds? Why don't the many Tuareg salt caravans cut its branches and use them as firewood for making tea? The only answer is that this tree is taboo and so respected by caravans." - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The acacia was knocked down in 1973 by an - allegedly drunken - truck driver. The then lieutenant and later state president Ali Saibou brought the remains of the Arbre du Ténéré in a military van to Niamey to the Niger National Museum on 8 November 1973, where they have been exhibited in their own pavilion since 1977. A tree-like structure made of metal pipes was erected at the site of the acacia, and chrome-plated hubcaps were later attached to its "branches" as reflectors for the night drivers. In 1998, Katsuyuki Shinohara erected the metal sculpture "Lighthouse of the Desert", with glass elements as optical and wind harps as acoustic orientation signs. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

At the Arbre du Ténéré there are two wells, one with bad water, possibly from a carcass that fell into it. The salt caravans use this place as a night camp. The nomads' campsite near the well is called Ad Azzaouagger. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The salt caravan moves on. The 600 km distance between Bilma and Agadez is covered in 16 to 20 days. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The " Arbre du Ténéré " is actually the sign of a lost waterhole in a desolate desert! Or was, because this legendary tree has disappeared! It was the expected signal for all the nomads passing through, who knew that at its foot there were two wells whose water, although not very inviting, was essential for camels. For those who have understood what the desert is, this souvenir photo is not only very beautiful but also deeply moving. It conveys a religious thought that makes the numerous sun signs depicted in the Sahara's rock art easier to understand. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The well by the tree of Ténéré. The mediocre water is found at a depth of 36 metres and is brought up by hand by the Tuareg or Toubou men of the caravans. A few metres further on is a second well, but unusable: a camel has fallen in. – Ténéré – Niger - 1966

A Kanouri from a Bilma caravan. He is taking advantage of a stop at the tree of Ténéré to pound millet. On the left, the clay vessel in which he will cook his midday meal. – Ténéré – Niger - 1966

Once at the well, water must be drawn, but it is so deep down that a wooden winding roller made on the spot is needed. The hole of the pulley is drilled with the help of an iron rod made red-hot in a camel dung fire. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The salt caravan moves on. The 600 km distance between Bilma and Agadez is covered in 16 to 20 days. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The adaptation to dry climates enables dromedaries to live in desert areas. They have the ability to go for long periods without water because they can store a lot of water in their bodies. The dorsal hump contains fat stores that the animal can burn to gain energy when food is scarce. Although the dromedary does not store water in its hump, it does store it in its stomach as needed. The kidneys reabsorb much of the fluid by concentrating the urine heavily. Most of the fluid is also removed from the faeces before excretion. In ten minutes, the dromedary can regain its body weight lost through sweating by absorbing water. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The caravan has made life possible for people in the desert thanks to the camel. In the inhuman aridity of the Ténéré, it is always surprising to find an azalaï, a salt caravan. The blocks of salt it loads have the strange shape of an automobile piston, the rod of which is a little thick ... Each block is wrapped in a mat of palm leaves, because the camels have to be unloaded every evening and reloaded every morning. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The Azalaï or salt caravan is the event of the year for the nomads. It always follows the same route because of the rarity of water points. The drivers believe that the trik el-meleh has existed since time immemorial ... In the past, the big caravans included up to 3000 camels. In our days, they number 500 to 1000. The stages stretch over almost 40 kilometres per day, and the load of an animal rarely weighs more than 80 to 100 kilograms. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The Azalaï, the salt caravan, in the Ténéré sandstorm. It carries Bilma's salt with it; 600 kilometres and three weeks of travel separate Bilma from Agadez. From Agadez, the salt continues towards Tahoua, Tanout and In-Gall, where it is exchanged for the products of the south. – Ténéré – Niger - 1966

The Azalaï or salt caravan is the event of the year for the nomads. It always follows the same route because of the rarity of water points. The drivers believe that the trik el-meleh has existed since time immemorial ... In the past, the big caravans included up to 3000 camels. In our days, they number 500 to 1000. The stages stretch over almost 40 kilometres per day, and the load of an animal rarely weighs more than 80 to 100 kilograms. Paradoxically, the caravan leader walks the entire distance. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

And the caravan moves on, untouched, it seems, by fatigue, thirst and sandy winds. Never does the leader lose his way, of which he knows every dune, every bend. But sometimes, consumed by his too great efforts, a camel falls as if struck by lightning. It will not rise again. Often, not only must the animal be abandoned, but also its burden left behind if no replacement camels follow the train. And all along the track, white skeletons, slowly buried by the sand, mark the harsh ordeal of the peaceful "desert ships". - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The Azalaï, the salt caravan, in the Ténéré sandstorm. It carries Bilma's salt with it; 600 kilometres and three weeks of travel separate Bilma from Agadez. From Agadez, the salt continues towards Tahoua, Tanout and In-Gall, where it is exchanged for the products of the south. – Ténéré – Niger - 1966

Photo Gallery