India - Rajasthan - The blue city of Jodhpur Brahmin

Living memory - From the banks of the Indus River through the steppes of Central Asia to the gates of the West, this man remembers the camels and the caravans that brought fragrant spices to Europe's tables. Did he get to see them? At least he remembers being told about them. And the memories will live on as long as the eyes and the words do. (Jodhpur, Rajasthan) - 1990

The blue city of Jodhpur - Rajasthan - India

At the market in Jodhpur, local farmers sell their own produce, including red chili peppers and eggplants. – 1990

Construction of the Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur began in 1459. The fort stands majestically atop a 123-metre-high rocky hill overlooking the ‘Blue City’. The fortress walls are up to 36 metres high and 21 metres wide. The fort is considered unconquered, as it has never been taken by force in its long history, despite numerous sieges. Today it houses a renowned museum. - 1990

Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur is one of the largest and best-preserved fortresses in India. Construction began in 1459 under Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur. It is an imposing fortress built of red sandstone, whose massive outer walls rise to a height of 36 metres and blend seamlessly with the natural cliffs.

Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur is renowned for its ornate jharokhas (covered balcony recesses). These sandstone balconies, often featuring delicate jalis (latticework windows), provided cooling, privacy and sweeping views over the ‘Blue City’. The structure is entirely crafted from the red or brown sandstone characteristic of Jodhpur, masterfully carved by hand. – 1990

The famous ‘Blue City’ of Jodhpur in Rajasthan. The densely packed blue houses are mainly located in the old quarters below Mehrangarh Fort. Traditionally, the blue colour indicated that the houses were inhabited by Brahmins, the highest caste in Hindu society. – 1990

A densely built-up neighbourhood in Jodhpur, known worldwide as the ‘Blue City’ due to its distinctive blue-painted houses. Originally, members of the Brahmin caste painted their homes blue to signify their social status and to distinguish their houses from those of other social classes. As the region lies on the edge of the Thar Desert and is exposed to extremely high temperatures, the lime-based blue paint serves to reflect sunlight. This keeps the interior of the buildings noticeably cooler. Copper sulphate was mixed into the traditional lime paint. This chemical compound not only produced the deep blue hue, but also effectively protects the masonry from termite infestation to this day and keeps mosquitoes at bay. – 1990

The famous ‘Blue City’ of Jodhpur in Rajasthan. The densely packed blue houses are mainly located in the old quarters below Mehrangarh Fort. Traditionally, the blue colour indicated that the houses were inhabited by Brahmins, the highest caste in Hindu society. – 1990

A densely built-up neighbourhood in Jodhpur, known worldwide as the ‘Blue City’ due to its distinctive blue-painted houses. Originally, members of the Brahmin caste painted their homes blue to signify their social status and to distinguish their houses from those of other social classes. As the region lies on the edge of the Thar Desert and is exposed to extremely high temperatures, the lime-based blue paint serves to reflect sunlight. This keeps the interior of the buildings noticeably cooler. Copper sulphate was mixed into the traditional lime paint. This chemical compound not only produced the deep blue hue, but also effectively protects the masonry from termite infestation to this day and keeps mosquitoes at bay. – 1990

The famous ‘Blue City’ of Jodhpur in Rajasthan. The densely packed blue houses are mainly located in the old quarters below Mehrangarh Fort. Traditionally, the blue colour indicated that the houses were inhabited by Brahmins, the highest caste in Hindu society. As the region lies on the edge of the Thar Desert and is subject to extremely high temperatures, the lime-based blue paint serves to reflect sunlight. This keeps the interiors of the buildings noticeably cooler. The blue colour also serves to keep the houses cooler in the hot climate and to repel mosquitoes. – 1990

The historic Chhatri of Kirat Singh Soda is located within the grounds of the famous Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur. It is a memorial (cenotaph) to the brave soldier Kirat Singh Soda, who fell here whilst defending the fort. The pavilion stands on a raised platform, features intricately designed columns and is crowned by a large stone dome with richly decorated panels. The entire structure is built from weather-resistant red sandstone, typical of the region. – 1990

A view from the ramparts of the majestic Mehrangarh Fort over the historic old town of Jodhpur, also known as the ‘Blue City’. The densely packed clusters of houses, painted in indigo blue, dominate the entire cityscape. Traditionally, the blue wall paint signalled membership of the Brahmin (priestly) caste, but today it also helps to keep the buildings cool in the desert heat. In the foreground, one can see one of the typical, ornately decorated sandstone pavilions (chhatris) and the massive fortification walls of the fort. – 1990

This individual is most likely a Eurasian griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus). These vultures are very common winter visitors in north-western India, particularly around Jodhpur (such as at the well-known carcass site in Keru). – 1990

An elderly man in traditional dress from Jodhpur. His attire consists of a long white tunic (kurta) and loose, wrapped trousers (dhoti). On his head he wears a carefully wrapped, light-coloured turban (safa). In his hands he holds ritual or everyday objects, including an ornate metal vessel and lengths of fabric. – 1990

A traditional folk musician in typical regional costume, playing the historic stringed instrument known as the Ravanahattha. This is an ancient long-necked lute and one of the oldest known precursors of the modern violin. The body usually consists of a halved coconut covered with animal skin, and a long neck made of bamboo. The instrument has main and resonance strings, as well as a bow that is often decorated with small bells. – Jodhpur – 1990

Portrait of an elderly man from Jodhpur. He is wearing a traditional, colourful turban (pagri or safa). In the Rajasthan region, the way the turban is wrapped, its size and its pattern traditionally indicate the wearer’s caste, occupation and specific region of origin. In addition to its symbolic significance, the voluminous cotton fabric provides effective protection from the intense sunlight in desert regions. The colourfully patterned fabric of the turban is often designed in the regionally typical Leheriya (wave pattern) or Bandhani (tie-dye) style. – 1990

A woman in traditional Indian dress walking along an old stone wall. She is wearing a pink ghoonghat (headscarf/veil) and a patterned, reddish-pink gown. On her wrist she wears traditional bangles, which are typical of married women in this region. – Jodhpur – 1990

A woman in a blue sari is sitting on a four-wheeled wooden cart, which serves as her mobile stall for selling bananas. She is serving a woman in a pink, patterned sari. In the background, two sacred cows (zebus) are wandering freely along the street. – Jodhpur – 1990

An elderly woman in traditional dress is selling various goods. A brightly patterned cloth (sari or dupatta) covers her head and she has tattoos on her right forearm. In her hands she holds a traditional mechanical beam balance with two pans, used to weigh goods for customers. Behind the woman, several bicycles are leaning against a metal railing. – Jodhpur – 1990

Street scene in Jodhpur – A family of three riding together on a bicycle. – 1990

At the market in Jodhpur, local farmers sell their own produce, in this case red chillies and aubergines. – 1990

A young trader sits behind a large pile of fresh green chillies at a market in Jodhpur. These are elongated, light-green chillies with a mild to medium heat, which are frequently used in Indian cuisine for stews or as a side dish (e.g. Mirchi Bajji or Jwala chillies). – 1990

A traditional street barber at work outdoors. He is cutting a customer’s hair using a hand-operated clipper. This style of haircutting is typical of the informal sector in countries such as India (often referred to as a ‘roadside barber’). – Jodhpur – 1990

A man in traditional dress from the Rajasthan region. The large, intricately wrapped turban protects him from the extreme desert heat. The colour and style of the wrap often indicate social status, caste or the exact region of origin. The distinctive, often elaborately curled moustache, paired with a full beard, is a traditional symbol of masculinity, pride and honour in Rajasthan. The necklace with a gold amulet (often an amulet pendant known as a Madaliya) traditionally serves as a symbol of protection or indicates religious devotion. – Jodhpur – 1990

The portrait depicts an elderly man from Jodhpur wearing a traditional, intricately wrapped turban (safa or pagri) and a distinctive, split beard. In the desert region of Rajasthan, the turban is a proud symbol of honour, social status and membership of a particular caste or community. In addition to its cultural significance, the large, loosely wrapped strip of cotton fabric serves as practical protection against the extreme heat and sandstorms of the Thar Desert. Plain, light-coloured or earth-toned turbans such as this one are frequently worn in everyday life by older men, farmers or shepherds in rural areas. – 1990

A young girl in Jodhpur balances a woven basket on her head. The image documents the historically and socially deeply rooted practice of manual scavenging in South Asia. This involves carrying faeces or waste directly on the head. In practice, this work often falls to women and children from marginalised communities (such as the Dalits), who occupy the lowest rung of the traditional caste system. – 1990

The city of Jodhpur has a long tradition of making these hand-woven brooms (Jharoo). There is even the well-known Arna Jharna open-air museum, which is dedicated to the culture, various designs and ethnological background of Indian brooms. In Rajasthan, these brooms are often hand-bound from dried palm leaves of the wild date palm (Khajur) or special, robust desert grasses. – 1990

A young woman from Jodhpur wearing traditional clothing and jewellery. A delicate, pink veil is loosely draped over her head. She has a bindi on her forehead, a traditional red dot adorned with a small gemstone. She wears a traditional necklace (often referred to as a thushi or timaniya) with small, gold-coloured pendants, as well as a simpler chain underneath. She wears numerous bangles on her forearms. – Sardar Market (or Girdikot) in Jodhpur – 1990

Balancing heavy sacks or bundles on one’s head is a common way of transporting goods in many rural and urban areas of India. The toddler sitting on the woman’s hip looks unhappy. – Sardar Market (or Girdikot) in Jodhpur – 1990

Two elderly men from Jodhpur, wearing traditional turbans, are taking a smoke break. The men are squatting in a typical Indian resting position beside large jute sacks by the roadside. One man wears a voluminous, pure white turban, as is often seen in the daily life of older village communities in regions such as Jodhpur. The other man wears a colourful red turban with a bandhani pattern (a traditional Indian tie-dye technique). – Sardar Market (or Girdikot) in Jodhpur – 1990

This three-wheeled vehicle is a Tempo Hanseat, an iconic mode of transport that has been a familiar sight on Indian roads for decades. The vehicle was originally developed in the 1940s and 1950s by the German company Vidal & Sohn Tempo-Werke in Hamburg-Harburg. In 1958, the Indian company Firodia Ltd (later known as Bajaj Tempo and now Force Motors) entered into a partnership with Tempo-Werke. Production of the Hanseat continued under licence in India until the year 2000. Although it was designed as a light goods vehicle, owners frequently converted it. Fitted with bench seats and a canopy, it served as a shared taxi for large numbers of passengers in many regions of India – particularly in rural areas. The vehicle featured a distinctive front-wheel drive layout, with the engine positioned directly above the single front wheel. Legendary features included the extremely loud, rattling engine noise, starting the engine via a pull-cord under the bonnet, and the angled rear wheels, which only straightened up under heavy loads. – Jodhpur – 1990

Chibani is an elderly man from Jodhpur who wears a traditional, very colourful headdress. This type of turban is known locally as a safa or pagri (pagadi). In Rajasthani culture, the turban is far more than just an item of clothing. It symbolises pride, honour and the social status of the wearer. Its shape, colour and the way it is wrapped can provide clues as to the region, caste or occasion. – 1990

Chibani is an elderly man from Jodhpur who wears a traditional, very colourful headdress. The vibrant patterns are often based on traditional dyeing techniques such as bandhani or colourful woven designs. – 1990

Chibani is an elderly man from Jodhpur who wears a traditional, very colourful headdress. The vibrant patterns are often based on traditional dyeing techniques such as bandhani or colourful woven designs. In the hot desert regions of Rajasthan, the long, artfully wrapped strip of fabric effectively protects the head from the intense sunlight. – 1990

Chibani is an elderly man from Jodhpur who wears a traditional, very colourful headdress. This type of turban is known locally as a safa or pagri (pagadi). In Rajasthani culture, the turban is far more than just an item of clothing. It symbolises pride, honour and the social status of the wearer. Its shape, colour and the way it is wrapped can provide clues as to the region, caste or occasion. – 1990

Chibani is an elderly man from Jodhpur who wears a traditional, very colourful headdress. The vibrant patterns are often based on traditional dyeing techniques such as bandhani or colourful woven designs. In the hot desert regions of Rajasthan, the long, artfully wrapped strip of fabric effectively protects the head from the intense sunlight. – 1990

The camel cart is the perfect means of transport in arid regions such as here near Jodhpur, on the edge of the Thar Desert. Such traditional carts still characterise the rural and semi-desert landscape there to this day. The local desert dwellers use these carts every day to transport crops, dry grass or cotton between the surrounding villages. The wide car tyres on the cart prevent the heavy team from getting stuck in the fine, hot desert sand. – 1990

At Jodhpur’s spice market, a colourful array of spices, grains, seeds and powders is displayed in square and round containers. Yellow, red and white powders (such as turmeric, chilli powder or rice flour) form the basis for curries, stews and pasta dishes. Pulses, lentils and mustard seeds are used for nutritious side dishes, soups or for toasting in hot oil. Spice blends lend a deep flavour to meat, fish and vegetable dishes. – 1990

The backdrop to this shop in Jodhpur is dominated by packaged goods from the Indian food industry, though spices and staple foods are still sold in bulk. – 1990

In Hinduism, cows are considered sacred and untouchable, which is why they are often found right in the midst of public life, as here at a bustling street market in Jodhpur. The veneration of the cow is deeply rooted in Indian culture and continues to play a role in political and religious debates to this day. The market stall sells various items of clothing and toys, a typical sight at urban Indian street markets. – 1990

A traditional open-air market stall selling a variety of handmade household goods and tools made of metal or wood. – Jodhpur – 1990

A street vendor selling traditional earthenware pots at the market in Jodhpur. The woman is wearing a traditional, colourful costume, as well as eye-catching arm and foot jewellery. The large, round, light-coloured vessels are traditional Indian water pots, known as matkas. These unglazed pots use evaporative cooling to keep drinking water cool naturally during the hot summer. In the foreground are stacks of smaller, reddish-brown clay bowls and pots, painted with delicate black and white patterns. These are often used for storing food, dairy products such as yoghurt (dahi), or as cooking vessels. Hand-woven mats or fans (probably made from palm leaves) are also on sale. – 1990

A traditional roadside barber (often referred to as a ‘roadside barber’), a common sight in public spaces in countries such as India, as seen here in Jodhpur. All that is needed for this makeshift salon is a simple blue wooden chair, a small table with a mirror, and barber’s tools. – 1990

This photograph was taken in the streets of Jodhpur. It captures the reality of life for an elderly homeless man sitting on the ground and eating his meal. Many people with no fixed abode live and sleep in the narrow market alleys around the historic Clock Tower and Sardar Market. – 1990

A bustling street scene in Jodhpur, where a camel cart – a traditional means of transport – makes its way through the modern traffic. The camel shares the road with motorbikes, buses and pedestrians. – 1990

In India, the scooter is seen as a symbol of the middle-class dream. It provides families with an affordable means of transport, and it is not uncommon for several people – often an entire family – to ride on a single vehicle at the same time. – Jodhpur – 1990

This young man is wearing a traditional Indian headdress known as a Jodhpuri Safa. This turban is usually made of cotton or georgette, and is often decorated with traditional patterns such as bandhani (tie-dye). It is frequently worn at weddings (as a groom’s safa) or other festive occasions. A safa often consists of a long strip of fabric (up to 8.5 metres) that is artfully wrapped around the head. – Jodhpur – 1990

An older man’s standing in Rajasthan is reflected in his traditional Rajasthani attire. The colourful, patterned turban is the most striking feature. It consists of a long strip of fabric and symbolises honour, pride and social status. The white top (angarkha, a tunic) with its small floral pattern is a traditional wrap-style garment. It is often tied at the side with cords. The red cloth around the waist serves as a belt and a decorative element. A long, well-groomed beard is often a sign of maturity and dignity in this region. – Jodhpur – 1990

A nomad from the Thar Desert (Rajasthan). The men who led the long caravans of camels towards the Indus Valley and on through the steppes of what is now Pakistan and Iran towards the Mediterranean, or upstream via the Khyber Pass towards Afghanistan and southern Russia, would likely have looked much the same. – Jodhpur – 1990

A woman is performing the ritual known as ‘threshing’, in which grain (such as millet or wheat) is thrown into the air so that the wind separates the lighter chaff from the heavier grains. The woman is wearing many bracelets, which are an essential status symbol for married women in Rajasthan. Wearing many bracelets – particularly those made of materials such as coloured glass, clay or the traditional lac (resin) – indicates that a woman is married and symbolically serves to ensure her husband’s protection, health and long life. – Jodhpur area – 1990

A woman from the Rabari community is piling the grain she has winnowed into a heap. She is wearing many bangles, which are an essential status symbol for married women in Rajasthan. Wearing many bracelets – particularly those made from materials such as coloured glass, clay or the traditional lac (resin) – indicates that a woman is married and symbolically serves to ensure her husband’s protection, health and long life. – Jodhpur area – 1990

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