Niger - Tenere - View of the Adrar Chiriet

Niger - Meet a camión from Bilma in the Ténéré Desert

The caravan crosses the desert near the Crab’s claw - in the background the Oued Arakao - Niger

The caravan (Azelaï) continues its journey after having spent the night near the tree of Teneré - Niger

The salt caravan (Azelaï) about 70 km from Agadéz during a sandstorm - Niger

Niger - Ténéré - a millstone Neolithic, found with his crusher.

Dunes and a dead tree - This tiny dead tree contrasts with the immense and sensual sand dunes caressed by the wind. - Tenere - Niger

Objective Arakao - At the edge of the Aïr and the Ténéré, the Arakao mountains become visible on the horizon, setting the goal of a long day's march for the caravan. Caution: Bring enough water! - Niger / between Aïr and Tenere / 1999

Dunes in Arakao - The Arakao region is part of the Aïr Massif, which is still one of the most wooded areas in the Sahara. However, at the border of the Ténéré and its dunes, the already sparse vegetation disappears abruptly. - Niger / between Aïr and Ténéré / 1992

Light caravan - For one-day trips, the camel drivers leave behind bags, riding saddles, food and feed supplies at the camp. They will only ride the camels when the heat makes walking unbearable. - Niger / between Aïr and Ténéré / 1999

The lost stone - At sunset, the shadow of a rare stone points north-east. - Niger / Ténéré / 1975

The great outdoors… - The caravan moves southeast, towards the endless Ténéré. - Niger / Ténéré / 2000

The red boulder - A clear day on wadi Tafidet, which – though rarely – carries water from the Aïr to the Ténéré. Driven by an exceptional flood, this rock broke off its route and, when the sun reappeared, had landed here. - Niger / Ténéré / 1992

Gazelle grass - In the Ténéré, vegetation is often limited to individual grasses, sparse food for gazelles and cattle, but a poetic toy for the wind.

The dunes and the bird - A picture puzzle: Where is the bird? With a magnifying glass, one can see the black and white Moulay-Moulay (white-crowned wheatear from the Sahara, Oenanthe leucopyga), which is traditionally regarded as a lucky charm for travelers.

Dunes at Temet - In the dry season, the Wadi Temet consists only of a red-hot riverbed featuring the silhouette of a dead tree, which the dunes protect and threaten at the same time. - Niger / between Aïr and Ténéré / 2003

Dusk over the Arakao - The dead tree in backlight is reminiscent of a fallen figure by Giacometti. - Niger / between Aïr and Ténéré

Light and Shadow - The sun rises on Arakao. Nothing will disturb the silence of the shadows or the stillness of the light. - Niger / between Aïr and Ténéré / 1992

The great crossing - Through rippled sand waves and immense dunes, the way of the caravan seems to be without end. - Niger / Ténéré / Erg Izane / 2001

Draw me a shadow - Shadow of life, shadow of death in the solitude of the desert. - Niger / Between Aïr and Ténéré / 1999

Lone Tree, region of Adrar Bous - How did this tree grow roots here? How has it survived the winds, the hungry herds and the men looking for lumber? Maybe they let it live because it provides unexpected shade in return. - Niger / Ténéré / 2003

Balance - The sculptor god has chosen a huge space under the sky for the exhibition of his work. Admission is free for all who endeavor to come here. - Niger / between Aïr and Ténéré / 2000

Silent sands - Listen to the song of the dunes, a mysterious symphony of souls and bodies. - Niger / Ténéré / Arakao / 1992

Azalaï is the name given to the caravans that transport salt from Bilma to Agadez. The route is strenuous and dangerous even for the dromedaries, as proved by this skeleton in the foreground.

Young woman from the Kanouri ethnic group in the Kaouar region, Ténéré (Niger). Noteworthy is her traditional silver nose ring depicting a snake biting its tail. Equally frequent are the unavoidable black flies, which pervade everyday life in the Sahara.

At the edge of the Ténéré (Niger), the wind avidly shapes the beautiful dunes of Temet. This sea of sand is only limited by the high mountains of the Aïr in the distance.

In the Aïr, a pathfinder on foot looks for the best way to cross the dunes. - Erg Izane / Aïr / Niger

The Ténéré is one of the least populated regions in the world, except here on the “salt route” from Bilma to Agadez (Niger), where loud trucks have replaced the steady, serene pace of the camel caravans.

Azalaï is the name given to the caravans that transport salt from Bilma to Agadez. The route is strenuous and dangerous even for the dromedaries, as proved by this skeleton in the foreground.

Touareg caravan - On their way to a distant water source, the caravan stop before nightfall, and then the camels are fed with the hay they carry on their packs. - Niger / Ténéré / Erg Izane / 2000

Niger - Tenere - In the morning, camels are grouped

Between the Aïr and the Ténéré (Arakao, Niger), it is dusk in the Sahara and the “crab pincer” of the mountains suddenly forms one of the most beautiful dunes in the world.

At the edge of the Ténéré, Chef Abakaoua leads the way.

Last efforts in the Ténéré before arriving at the well - Erg Izane / Ténéré / Niger

The guelta of Agamgam, last station before crossing the Ténéré. - Aïr / Niger

Niger - The Tree of Tenere, a thorn acacia, today disappeared

Untouched portrait of a worker at the Bilma saline.

Salt statues, a living eternity. A worker at the Bilma saline.

The mushroom-shaped salt is loaded onto camels for transport. - Bilma / Kaouar / Niger

Salt caravan (Azaleï) moving through the Ténéré – 600 km of desert until Agadez!

Adventure in sight - In the Sahara, buses and trucks for passenger transport are rare and fares are expensive. Between Bilma and Agadez, they follow the traditional path of salt caravans. - Niger / Ténéré / 2002

Dried plant in the dunes - Erg Brousset / Ténéré / Niger

Arakao, dunes and dead tree - between Aïr and Ténéré / Niger

Black woman from Bilma in the Kaouar valley in the desert Ténéré - Niger

The lost stone, evening - Oued Tafassasset / Ténéré

Aïr / Descent to Adrar Chiriet At the end of a long and beautiful day in the desert, the tired caravan will set up camp in the pasture, between dunes and mountains. Tomorrow will be another day.

Aïr / Dunes near Tezirzek / To the next well In the labyrinth of dunes, the guides know how to find the way to the well where they can get water for men and camels.

Erg Izane / Departure into beauty When the shadows are getting longer, they highlight the beauty of the last dunes before reaching the "blue mountains" in the Erg Izane.

Ténéré / Témète», the pet Témète», a dog of the breed azawak, precious assistant of the hunter and the shepherd, has its place in the caravan. Its name means : link between men.

Aïr / Tagueït / The guide In the desert, it is always the man of knowledge and experience who chooses the best route to preserve the resources of the caravan.

Aïr / The "taguella" Cooking the taguella owes everything to the desert. The sand acts as an oven, heated by the embers of wood carried on camels.

Erg Izane / Getting into another world The caravan is about to enter a mineral universe that is no longer the world of men but that of an intact nature where only the nomads know how to survive.

Ténéré / The long walk Beyond the dunes of Izane, the massif of Tahmert will be the point of arrival in the evening of a long and beautiful day sailing through the Sahara.

Ténéré / Erg Izane / Stop in the shadow No tree, no rock as far as the eye can see. For the rest of a few minutes, the only shadow is that of the camels, but they can only turn their backs to the sun.

Aïr / Tamgak / The relaxation In the mountains, men finally find the time and the place of a real relax where water and fire get married.

Azalaï in the sandstorm – Niger – Tenere

Tree of Ténéré
The Ténéré tree was a lonely acacia tree, considered to be the most isolated tree on Earth, the only one within a 400 km radius. It was an important landmark for caravans crossing the Tenere desert.
In 1973, the tree was knocked down by a Libyan truck driver, probably drunk. The dead tree was transported to the National Museum of Niger in Niamey and replaced by a simple metal sculpture representing a tree.
Niger - Tenere - 1967

Azalai in the sandstorm
Azalaï, a camel caravan led by the Tuaregs, transports various goods crossing the Ténéré desert to exchange them for rock salt or sell them on the Sahel markets. The trip usually takes place between October and November and lasts about forty days.
Niger - Tenere - 1967

On the edge of the Ténéré desert, towards the Tibesti, the relief of the Sahara winds in the strange shapes of stone sculptures. - Chad - 1967

The sun sets over the Ténéré; the plateau of Djado becomes a nocturnal geometry. - Niger - 1966

Djado, standing on a peak in front of the threatening immensity of the Ténéré. The "Mont-Saint-Michel of the Sands"... This is one of the strangest sites in Niger. If you look at the walls of this medieval fortress, surrounded by rotting water, you will realise that salt is the main material. The Tibbous still come to camp on the site at the time of the date harvest, but the town itself is abandoned to the spirits, and nothing is more moving than the journey through these deserted streets in which the walls of this ancient metropolis are crumbling, one by one. Archaeologically, the site deserves serious excavation and work, but it is located in an area with very difficult access. Moreover, its former occupants were victims of its geographical situation, at the limit of the plain and the mountain, at a time when the latter was the safest refuge against the permanent threat of looters. – Niger - 1968

Young canoe woman from Séguédine. Like the tubu women, she wears a ring in the right wing of her nose, which represents a snake curling in a circle. The fine plaits of the hairstyle are re-braided about once a month. Grease or oil is added to make them shiny. – Kaouar – Niger – 1966

The Azalaï or salt caravan is the event of the year for the nomads. It always follows the same route because of the rarity of water points. The drivers believe that the trik el-meleh has existed since time immemorial ... In the past, the big caravans included up to 3000 camels. In our days, they number 500 to 1000. The stages stretch over almost 40 kilometres per day, and the load of an animal rarely weighs more than 80 to 100 kilograms. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The Arbre du Ténéré from a distance! This tree was an umbrella thorn acacia (Acacia tortilis) that was considered the most isolated tree on earth - supposedly the only one within a radius of 400 kilometres, other data mention 150 km. It was probably the last surviving tree of a group of trees that grew up when the desert was less dry than at present. The tree stood alone for several decades. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

During the winter of 1938/39, a shaft was dug near the "Arbre du Ténéré", it turned out that the tree had reached the water table at a depth of 33 to 36 metres. In 1939, the officer Michel Lesourd, stationed in French West Africa, wrote about the solitary tree: "One must have seen the tree to believe its existence. What is its secret? How can it still remain undeserted, despite the multitude of dromedaries near it? How come no camel eats its leaves and buds? Why don't the many Tuareg salt caravans cut its branches and use them as firewood for making tea? The only answer is that this tree is taboo and so respected by caravans." - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

At the Arbre du Ténéré there are two wells, one with bad water, possibly from a carcass that fell into it. The salt caravans use this place as a night camp. The nomads' campsite near the well is called Ad Azzaouagger. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The " Arbre du Ténéré " is actually the sign of a lost waterhole in a desolate desert! Or was, because this legendary tree has disappeared! It was the expected signal for all the nomads passing through, who knew that at its foot there were two wells whose water, although not very inviting, was essential for camels. For those who have understood what the desert is, this souvenir photo is not only very beautiful but also deeply moving. It conveys a religious thought that makes the numerous sun signs depicted in the Sahara's rock art easier to understand. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The well by the tree of Ténéré. The mediocre water is found at a depth of 36 metres and is brought up by hand by the Tuareg or Toubou men of the caravans. A few metres further on is a second well, but unusable: a camel has fallen in. – Ténéré – Niger - 1966

The adaptation to dry climates enables dromedaries to live in desert areas. They have the ability to go for long periods without water because they can store a lot of water in their bodies. The dorsal hump contains fat stores that the animal can burn to gain energy when food is scarce. Although the dromedary does not store water in its hump, it does store it in its stomach as needed. The kidneys reabsorb much of the fluid by concentrating the urine heavily. Most of the fluid is also removed from the faeces before excretion. In ten minutes, the dromedary can regain its body weight lost through sweating by absorbing water. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

A Kanouri from a Bilma caravan. He is taking advantage of a stop at the tree of Ténéré to pound millet. On the left, the clay vessel in which he will cook his midday meal. – Ténéré – Niger - 1966

Once at the well, water must be drawn, but it is so deep down that a wooden winding roller made on the spot is needed. The hole of the pulley is drilled with the help of an iron rod made red-hot in a camel dung fire. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The caravan has made life possible for people in the desert thanks to the camel. In the inhuman aridity of the Ténéré, it is always surprising to find an azalaï, a salt caravan. The blocks of salt it loads have the strange shape of an automobile piston, the rod of which is a little thick ... Each block is wrapped in a mat of palm leaves, because the camels have to be unloaded every evening and reloaded every morning. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The Azalaï or salt caravan is the event of the year for the nomads. It always follows the same route because of the rarity of water points. The drivers believe that the trik el-meleh has existed since time immemorial ... In the past, the big caravans included up to 3000 camels. In our days, they number 500 to 1000. The stages stretch over almost 40 kilometres per day, and the load of an animal rarely weighs more than 80 to 100 kilograms. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The Azalaï or salt caravan is the event of the year for the nomads. It always follows the same route because of the rarity of water points. The drivers believe that the trik el-meleh has existed since time immemorial ... In the past, the big caravans included up to 3000 camels. In our days, they number 500 to 1000. The stages stretch over almost 40 kilometres per day, and the load of an animal rarely weighs more than 80 to 100 kilograms. Paradoxically, the caravan leader walks the entire distance. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The salt caravan moves on. The 600 km distance between Bilma and Agadez is covered in 16 to 20 days. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

And the caravan moves on, untouched, it seems, by fatigue, thirst and sandy winds. Never does the leader lose his way, of which he knows every dune, every bend. But sometimes, consumed by his too great efforts, a camel falls as if struck by lightning. It will not rise again. Often, not only must the animal be abandoned, but also its burden left behind if no replacement camels follow the train. And all along the track, white skeletons, slowly buried by the sand, mark the harsh ordeal of the peaceful "desert ships". - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The salt caravan moves on. The 600 km distance between Bilma and Agadez is covered in 16 to 20 days. - Ténéré - Niger - 1966

The Azalaï, the salt caravan, in the Ténéré sandstorm. It carries Bilma's salt with it; 600 kilometres and three weeks of travel separate Bilma from Agadez. From Agadez, the salt continues towards Tahoua, Tanout and In-Gall, where it is exchanged for the products of the south. – Ténéré – Niger - 1966

Tufts of grass in the desert in the southern Ténéré - Niger - 1975

Achegour is a regionally important water point on the northern Aïr-Bilma route between the Arbre du Ténéré and Dirkou in the Kaouar valley in northern Niger. The well is located in the middle of a sandy depression of the Falaise mountain range of Achegouar in the Ténéré desert. The water level is about 2-3 m deep. The water is slightly salty, but drinkable. Camels, however, drink the water only reluctantly. There are several acacias and tamarisk trees at the well of Achegour. - Ténéré - Niger - 1975

Balise number 1 of the Berliet expedition in the area of today's Djanet airport. The Berliet-Ténéré mission of 1959-1960 was a two-phase expedition across the Sahara organised by the truck manufacturer Berliet. It began in November 1959 and led from Djanet in Algeria via the Ténéré tree and the Termit massif to Lake Chad and Fort-Lamy (today N'Djaména in Chad) through the Sahara. The return route was via Bilma and the Djado Plateau back to Djanet. - Algeria - 1975

Balise 19 of Mission Berliet can be found in the north of Niger, on the Gara Toubeau hill in the Agadez region. Its coordinates are 21°38'9" N 9°57'4" E. - Niger - 1975

Point 5 is located in the Oued Toubeau Tafassasset, south of Balise 19 of the Berliet mission. - Ténéré - Niger - 1975

Balise 17 of Mission Berliet is located in the north of Niger, south of Adrar Bous in the Agadez region. The coordinates are 20°14'3" N 8°57'6" E. - Niger - 1975

Landscape photo from the Adrar Bous area - West Ténéré - Niger - 1975

Témet is a dry valley in the Agadez region. It runs from Mont Gréboun in the high mountains of Aïr to the Ténéré desert to the east. In rainy years, a lake can form in the desert. But the extreme temperatures soon cause it to dry up. - Témet - Ténéré - Niger - 1975

Témet is a dry valley in the Agadez region. It runs from Mont Gréboun (1944 m) in the high mountains of Aïr to the Ténéré desert to the east. In Témet are the highest sand dunes of the Ténéré, which can reach a height of 300 metres. - Témet - Ténéré - Niger - 1975

At sunset, the shadow of a rare stone points north-east. - Niger - Ténéré - 1975

The "Rocher Toubeau" is a rock in the middle of the desert in the north of Niger, near the border with Algeria. A lone bird has perched on it to rest. - North Ténéré - Niger - 1975

Dead tree in the dry valley of Témet in the Agadez region. - Témet - Ténéré - Niger - 1975

This prehistoric millstone was found in the north of Erg Bréard. It is located east of the Aïr Mountains in the Ténéré. - Niger - 1975

Stone mill found near site 11 in Enneri Blaka - Niger - 1975

These pottery sherds come from the Adrar Bous area - West Ténéré - Niger - 1975

These prehistoric pottery shards and bones come from the Adrar Bous area - West Ténéré - Niger - 1975

Probably the most common evidence of the Neolithic in the Sahara are arrowheads. There are numerous forms, depending on the target the user was aiming at. Broadly speaking, three main varieties can be distinguished: triangular, pedunculated and those with a transversal edge, the latter being prototypes of the medieval bolts. Although certain points could have been used for fishing, it is clear that the vast majority were intended for hunting and probably also for war. And experience showed the users very early on that the weight and shape of the stone attachment with which the tip of the arrow shaft was equipped had to be calculated with reference to the target to be reached. That is why there is such an astonishing variety of forms, but they can easily be classified according to type and family. (IFAN Collection, Dakar, Senegal) – 1969

The polished axe must have been the primary weapon or implement of Neolithic man. Thousands of them have been found, and the beauty of its shape and the fine grain of the minerals chosen are a source of admiration. Numerous ethnographic comparisons allow us to assume that it was shafted in wood, the shaft hole having been drilled with the help of fire. A vegetable resin, like glue, may have secured the fastening (IFAN Collection, Dakar, Senegal) - 1969

To the east of the Aïr Mountains lies the Ténéré Desert. One part of this desert is the Erg Brousset with the Adrar Madet, a small mountain range. On the way there, you may encounter the lorries that connect Bilma to Agadez. - Adrar Madet - Niger - 2002

To the east of the Aïr Mountains lies the Ténéré Desert. One part of this desert is the Erg Brousset with the Adrar Madet, a small mountain range. On the way there, you may encounter the lorries that connect Bilma to Agadez. The lorries are packed with goods and a large number of passengers on top. - Adrar Madet - Niger - 2002

An Azalaï, a salt caravan, is still travelling between Bilma and Agadez. But for how much longer? Soon they will be completely replaced by lorries. - Adrar Madet - Niger - 2002

A group of Tuareg nomads have completed their barter transactions near Adrar Madet and are getting ready to return to the Aïr Mountains. - Adrar Madet - Niger - 2002

Departure of the caravan. - Adrar Madet - Niger - 2002

The caravan forms up for departure. - Adrar Madet - Niger - 2002

The caravan leaves the Adrar Madet in a westerly direction. About 70 kilometres lead through the Erg Brousset to the foothills of the Aïr Mountains. - Adrar Madet - Niger - 2000

The caravan begins with the crossing of Erg Brousset. - Niger - 2001

Late afternoon in Erg Brousset. - Niger - 2000

Citrullus Colocynthis: In the ouadis or valleys, you can easily find large patches of small pumpkins or watermelons. They are round balls scattered on the ground. Some are fresh, others are dried. You are not allowed to eat them, but they are used for medicinal purposes. For rheumatism, as a laxative, for gonorrhoea, for urinary tract infections, for diabetes... - On the edge of Erg Brousset - Niger - 2000

In the desert, it is always the man of knowledge and experience who chooses the best way to obtain the caravan's resources. - End of the crossing of Erg Brousset. Abakaoua, the Tuareg chief, leads the caravan to the sand dunes of Tagueït. - Niger - 2001

This boulder is located in the Oued Tâfidet in the transition zone between the Aïr Mountains and the Ténéré Desert - Niger - 1992

This boulder is located in the Oued Ibil in the transition zone between the Aïr Mountains and the Ténéré Desert - Niger - 1992

These rock needles were put there by human hands. However, it is not known what they mean. - Oued Ibill - Aïr - Niger - 1992

Descent over the dunes of Torguit - Aïr - Niger - 2000

At the edge of the Ténéré, at the end of the Oued Arakao, there is a natural, circular mountain range: the Crab Claw. The caravan crosses this area, which is dotted with sand dunes. - Aïr - Niger - 2000

Still life at the edge of the Crab Claw - Aïr - Niger - 2000

At the edge of the Ténéré, at the end of the Oued Arakao, there is a natural, circular mountain range: the Crab Clow. The caravan crosses this area, which is dotted with sand dunes. - Aïr - Niger - 2000